So let's talk about LIGHTNER USAGE on hair!
Do you think blondes have more fun? Well I do, as a hairstylist I can create a lot more with blondes...but at a cost...& I don't just mean cost as a $ dollar figure $ because we all know it is a pricey service/services when lifting to a lighter colour level and/or to be highest levels of blonde. I mean the cost of the hairs fundamental structure.
We all see the luxurious blondes pictures on Instagram/Pinterest. The miraculous before & after transformations, the products/formulas used to complete the blonding task.... but we rarely see the in between stages of how Guests maintain their mane. Are they doing the right at home hair regime for their hair? Did we give them the knowledge they deserve to preserve their hair?
Sharing knowledge to your Guests throughout their hair journey at the beginning, during, finishing touches & future hair journey of any service is key! Clear & transparent communication is so fundamental. Especially any colour chemical processes. The why's & hows's of Lightner pro/con capabilities & maintaining/replenishing the hair needs after enduring a chemical process.
When lightener is used it alters & changes the natural structure of the hair. It removes/breaks the important elements your hair naturally has & it will never be the same until the newgrowth appears or cutting the hair up to where the artificial colour lives. There is SO MUCH DETAILS about Lightner {I'm scratching the surface what the information or you'd be reading for days}...& the details can differ from each set of hair that's in your chair! If you have artificial colour [Permanent/Demi/Semi] Lightner first breaks down those artificial pigments before it breaks down the natural pigments to lift & if you have natural dark level hair too, the process is tedious that's why some hair journeys can take several sessions.
Things to think about when Lightner is used on your hair.
---> Having Lightner used in your hair & wanting to go dark. Lightner physically alters the hair structure & will be still present in your hair; just masked with an artificial colour. Covering Lightner used hair to dark, if you're wanting to be consistent, your hair needs to be fill the hair {separate step} with the artificial pigments of either red/orange/yellow {These are the natural colour pigments found in hair} before the final step of desired darker hair colour. If you don't fill, your colour will fade faster. All artificial colour fades & can/will fade faster when Lightner is presented in hair. I actually liked to use the word evolve rather than fade. It sounds more fancy. At times I add a filler into my formula & don't do a separate step but use transparency & let Guests know that the hair will evolve faster with out this extra step. If you can enjoy a hair journey of evolving hair, be aware & embrace it.
---> If you have dark hair {levels 5-1} & desire much lighter hue the process takes longer to lift. Unfortunately a single session wont get you there. I use the low & slow method when using Lightner on hair. Using lower developer will still get you to where you need or even platinum, just at a more controlled rate & able to use Lightner again if more sessions are required. Using higher developers will get you to a Lightner level but its at the cost of the integrity of your hair. It present more risk of future breakage, porosity issues, lack of shine/moisture & unmanageable hair.
Lightner doesn't know what's it being put on, race of hair, artificial colour history or integrity. Lightner is Lightner - no matter the Brand, it has one job. Lift & surgically eats away/breaks the natural elements/pigments hair consists of.
Using the necessary products to insure the hairs health when undergoing this chemical service [Bond healer, Protein, low & slow lifting method, balancing the hairs pH level] Repairing the hairs health during the service is one thing but it needs to continue to maintain the health of the hair. If not, it will cost you the integrity & manageability of your hair. SNIP SNIP!
Styling & take home treatment products are insurance for your hair. Chemical processed hair needs to be fueled to continue to run at its full potential. When it runs empty...it's unmanageable. It's dry due to the lack of nutrients it needs. Hair just under went surgery & if you don't take your prescription...how is your hair suppose to heal & slay? Why do you think it always feels good during your service? We use the products your hair needs. Protection is PRIME!
Also, be prepared that natural elements, such as water, the sun, & air pollution can add risks to your hair. These element can evolve your colour/toner/glaze faster exposing your natural underlining pigment ---> ALWAYS A WARM HUE.
At home hair regimes to help maintain your blonde hair is important. This actually coincide with ALL colour services in general...even having fun fashion colours too because you have to be blonde before you can achieve vibrate/pastel fashion hue. [Stay tuned for my blog on the colourful hair world]
1 once a week hair mask & treatments are beneficial. Using styling products that will make your hair lush & protected. Pick a day of the week as your hair treat day. Mine is Sundays.
Be caution when using Lightner. All hair has limitations. Don't over push it with Lightner, just to try to get your desired lightness. Remember healthy hair is beauty hair.
Sin-Sheariously, Jami -xo-
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